Greece aficionados who want to see the foundations of the country's modern urban culture should visit Syros instead of Athens.
Throughout much of the 19th century, the small Aegean island was what Piraeus would become — the beating heart of Greek shipping.
The maritime wealth accrued is visible to this day. Magnificent neoclassical buildings such as the Apollo Theatre — partly inspired by the Scala in Milan — adorn its capital, Ermoupolis.
